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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.